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An excerpt from the forthcoming book
High and Dry on the Streets of Elsewhere
BY BAMBI VINCENT
Archil Zantaradze keeps a razor blade
in his mouth the way someone else
might store a tired wad of gum. Gently curving against his upper palate, he
can dislodge the blade with a bit of tongue suction and discreetly arm
himself in an instant.
True, pickpockets, by our definition, are non-violent.
The razor, actually
half a blade, is meant to slice a pocket or a purse; never human flesh. The
technique is a specialty of Zantaradze, St. Petersburg's most notorious
Georgian pickpocket, and peculiar to his compatriots.
Zantaradze perfected this dangerous practice while just
a teenager. (I can
imagine the technique easily: I did the same with my retainer as a
teenager, when I thought there might be a speck of food caught in it. But I
never worried about drawing blood!) He was taught by his own father, as all
his brothers were. And before he ever even scraped a razor against his
first soft whiskers, he could shoot the blade with awesome skill from its
wet storage place to his soft palm. His dextrous tongue snaps as quickly as
a frog's and he catches the razor in his hand as neatly as a magician palms
a card.
Zantaradze's sleight of tongue is not unique among
the criminal population
of Russian Georgians. Those who aren't taught at home learn in jail, where
the razor blade is a vital commodity. Desperately creative, inmates find
inconceivable functions for the simple object. Indeed, when attached to a
short length of wire and pushed into a power outlet, the lowly blade
miraculously becomes both a little heater and a water-boiler. And, "a
skillful cut of veins may lead a tired prisoner if not to death, then into
the relative comfort of a prison's hospital bed," my official Russian
contact explains. "Life accounts in prisons are also known to be settled
with this small metal device. Not to mention the ordinary functions of the
razor blade, like simply shaving or paper-cutting."
Vasily Zhiglov, our St. Petersburg Police
informant, arrested Zantaradze
last summer, and thereafter had ample opportunity to interview him.
Lounging in prison, Zantaradze was unembarrassed but surprised that he had
failed to bribe his way out. Officer Zhiglov acknowledged that not all of
the policemen can resist this "easy-sounding temptation," as the sum
represents full or at least half of a policeman's monthly wage. (The
bargaining usually starts at 500 rubles-$25 at the time of our discussion.)
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| Yuri Egorov, 60, has been picking pockets in Russia
for 42 years -- minus the 28 he spent in prison. |
"If there is anything good about Georgian
pickpockets, it's that they
rather respect the might and intelligence of their counterparts," said
Zhiglov. "Though the first thing a Georgian does when left tete-a-tete with
his guard is propose to accept money." And only after having tried this
trick will the typical Georgian pickpocket sit down calmly in the detention
room. The main source of such calmness, Zhiglov says, is the detainee's
understanding that he won't be left alone without the moral and financial
support of his fellow-nationals.
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Georgians, especially those living in foreign
cities, are fiercely loyal to
their compatriots; "stuck into a very firm community," as my Russian
friend, Volod'a, put it. Emotional and temperamental, their national
character is very different from other Russians. "Being representatives of
a truly southern nation, Georgians on average have a temper no colder than
Italians are said to have. A strong tradition for inheritance of one's
family craft is also a very Georgian thing.
"Legend has it that the most successful Georgian
pickpockets like to build
their mansions in the west coast city of Zugdidi, on the eastern shore of
the Black Sea, far from Georgia's capital, Tbilisi. And since many sons
naturally step into their fathers' professions," Volod'a tells me, "experts
claim Zugdidi is a virtual 'school of pickpocketing.'"
Strong connections within St. Petersburg's
Georgian community allow the
Georgian pickpockets, when detained, to count on the utmost support of
their fellow-nationals. And this brings to practically zero the number of
Georgian pickpockets actually sent to prison. (Of course there are equally
united Georgians of other professions, including those of no criminal
inclination.)
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| Pickpocket Andrei, 25, demos his stealthy technique
on Officer Kokina, St. Petersburg Police. |
Back to Archil Zantaradze, now calmly lounging
in Officer Zhiglov's jail.
It was not without a certain pride that Zantaradze admitted to Zhiglov that
he, along with at least four other Georgians, spent the summer of '98 in
France, "working" the streets and stadiums of cities hosting matches of the
World Cup. Zantaradze maintained that a skilled thief could easily make
three to five thousand US dollars a day by extracting cash from the pockets
and bags of the hordes of often-drunk soccer fans cruising the streets and
shops of every hosting city. The French towns, unaccustomed to such crowds
and crime, were unprepared and understaffed for the deluge.
Officer Zhiglov estimates that there were about
70 Russians, mostly from
Moscow and St. Petersburg, who combined the pleasure of watching World Cup
matches with the labor of cleaning out other fans' bags and pockets. He
said that before heading to "work" in a foreign country, a pickpocket would
thoroughly study the criminal code of that country. "And one would
certainly prefer to work in France or another European nation where the law
is much softer on this particular crime than, say, in Arabic countries,"
Zhiglov said.
Each year Russia receives about a dozen of
its returned citizens caught
stealing abroad. Strangely though, St. Petersburg's police department had
no contact with French police regarding St. Petersburgers caught picking
pockets in France either during the 90 days of the competition or in any of
the following months.
Igor Kudelya, Senior Lieutenant of the
St. Petersburg pickpocket squad, has
observed the Georgian pickpockets' techniques. He explained how, in buses,
the Georgian would always ask his neighbor to pass ticket money to the
conductor. When the man would lift his arm and stretch toward the
conductor, "pockets of at least one side of his clothes became a safe place
to pop in for the Georgian's skillful fingers."
The Lieutenant said that on frosty winter days,
when other pickpockets'
fingers "have frozen senseless," the Georgian can be spotted warming up his
fingers by exercising them with two or three small metal balls before
entering a working spot.
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