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I have a rather unusual profession which makes it
awkward to answer when I am asked during casual
conversation with strangers what I do for a living. I am a
professional pickpocket — always returning what I
steal — plying my trade as an entertainer on stages as
diverse as Las Vegas multi-million-dollar revues to
international corporate events. I have performed my unique
craft for 35 years in over 80 countries. Until now, I had
never had my own pockets picked even though I have
strolled often through so- called ultimate pocket-picking
grounds in Cartegena, the shouks in Cairo, and Las
Ramblas esplanade in Barcelona. I've been pushed and
shoved using public transportation like the Star ferry in
Hong Kong, and rush-hour subways in Tokyo, London, and
New York; yet I've never been a victim.
As a young magician I became interested in con-games
and pickpocketing, and in my early twenties, I hitchhiked
through Europe, from capital to capital, performing in some
and studying the subcultures of street crime in others. As
my show presentation improved my travel destinations
became more exotic, and I came to understand the methods
and the universal philosophy of all pickpockets. The most
important aspect always preceding a dip is the diversion
strategy. I became a fanatic collector of set-up ploys, always
on the look-out for the perfect sting. And yet, after 35 years
of researching the most diabolical ruses ever used to lure the
sap into a false sense of security, no pickpocket had ever
attempted to hustle me.
Finally my luck turned — I'm not sure for the good or
bad — during a recent visit to Naples. I had accepted a
two-month cruise engagement together with my wife
onboard the Song of Norway, calling on ports in the
Mediterranean and the Baltic Sea. After three consecutive
years in a Las Vegas showroom we wanted some travel
excitement and a change of scenery. Our port lecturer
warned about slick pickpockets in Rome and particularly
about the infamous scippatori of Napoli. Little did I know
that I myself would finally become a statistic in what must
be one of the world's highest concentrations of muggings
and pickpocketings in an area spanning less than half a
square mile: Quartieri Spagnoli, a section of Naples even
the police avoid.
I had known for years that marauding teams of
Vespa-riding pirates — borseggiatori — plied their vicious
bag-snatching chicanery on unsuspecting tourists in Italy,
and in Naples particularly. Handbags and gold chains were
being plucked off as easy as ripe oranges by back-seat riders
in daring dash-and-grab capers. It doesn't exactly qualify as
pickpocketing, but the end result is more or less the same.
It was therefore with extreme caution that
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my wife and I walked the streets of Naples, popular with tourists because
it's the starting point for ferry trips to Capri. Though Naples
is hardly a city of the beauty or historical magnitude of
Rome, Venice or Florence, my wife wanted to photograph
its colorful Quartieri Spagnoli district. It's old section, the
Centro Storico, has a seedy, rustic, old- world fascination,
with its dismal balconied apartments stacked on miniscule
dreary shops. As we walked, I reminded my wife that
Naples was the birthplace of pickpocketing, and I
scrutinized every scooter that buzzed by, making sure we
were out of reach.
They caught us completely off-guard. With silence their foil,
they had rolled down the hill, all three on a Vespa scooter,
its engine off. One guy remained on the scooter, ready to
bolt; another held me with my arms pinned to my sides, and
the third tried to rip the watch off my wrist. It was sudden,
quick and silent. No shouts or vulgar threats. Because my
reflexes never got into gear, I never had a chance to coil my
muscles into a protective stance.
It's a joke, I thought for an instant, expecting a friend or
a colleague to say "Gottcha!" I'm quite often grabbed by
people who've seen me perform; they like to make me
faux-victim in a sort of role reversal. Although this vice-grip
felt deadly serious, my thought process, instant and
automatic, cost me several seconds.
Fortunately, pickpockets are generally petty criminals
who can easily be scared off. They prefer wit, diversion, and
speed to violence as their modus operandi. As soon as my
adrenalin kicked in, I yelled at the top of my voice "Polizia,
polizia." Years of stage speaking certainly helped me to
project my voice. Instant reaction! They scrambled away as
fast as they had appeared.
We walked away, lucky but shaken. The watch strap didn't
give despite considerable force applied in attempting to snap
its pin. All I had lost was my my own track record. I could
no longer claim that pickpockets had never tried to steal
from me.
The proof of my own stupidity, namely wearing a Rolex
in Naples, was a scratched up wrist. I should have known
better. First rule for avoiding pickpockets: don't attract
them. Don't signal you're worth their while. Second rule: it
can happen to any tourist in southern Europe, be it Spain,
France or Italy. Police in every major European city have
extensive files on pickpockets — the best of whom travel all
over Europe, especially during the summer holiday season.
So don't think you're safe in Helsinki just because there's
hardly any street crime there.
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